Cosmetic ingredients

Solvent and preservative booster. Helps reduce the dose of classic preservatives in the formula and slightly retains skin moisture.

Tyrosinase and TRP-1 inhibitor, known as Rucinol. Works on both melanin synthesis steps, so it delivers stronger depigmentation.

Light synthetic emollient with a silky texture. Gives skin soft slip without a greasy film and does not clog pores.

Red mineral pigment based on iron oxide. Gives warm tones in foundations, lipsticks and blushes.

Yellow mineral pigment based on iron oxide. Builds base yellow and beige tones in decorative cosmetics.

Black mineral pigment based on iron oxide. Delivers deep dark tones in mascaras and eyeliners.

Synthetic fragrance ingredient with a lily-of-the-valley scent. Banned in EU cosmetics since August 2021 due to high sensitization.

Water-soluble antioxidant that inhibits tyrosinase and stimulates collagen synthesis. Unstable upon oxidation, requiring careful storage.

Water-soluble silicone surfactant-emulsifier. Stabilizes oil-in-water emulsions and provides soft slip on skin.

Nonionic PEG emulsifier and thickener for cleansers. Softens anionic surfactants and makes foam denser and creamier.

Mild nonionic co-surfactant and refatting agent in cleansers. Reduces the degreasing effect of primary surfactants and restores skin comfort after washing.

Synthetic tripeptide modeled on a peptide from the temple viper venom. Marketing compares it to botox; actual clinical studies are scarce.

Broad-spectrum chemical UVA filter. Covers the UVA1 range (340–400 nm) where mineral filters are weaker. Photounstable – requires stabilizers (octocrylene, Tinosorb S).

Third-generation synthetic retinoid. Photostable, less irritating than tretinoin. Available OTC at 0.1% concentration (Differin).

Natural nucleoside acting via skin adenosine receptors. Stimulates collagen synthesis and improves skin firmness.

Naturally derived dicarboxylic acid with antibacterial, sebum-regulating, and depigmenting properties. One of the few prescription-grade ingredients considered safe in pregnancy.

Triterpenic saponin from Centella asiatica. Stimulates type I collagen synthesis and accelerates healing. Part of TECA (Titrated Extract of Centella Asiatica) used in scar gels.

Film-forming polymer that creates a water-resistant film on the skin. Widely used in sunscreens to improve water resistance and even distribution of UV filters.

Porous carbon material. In medicine it is used orally for poisoning – adsorbing toxins in the GI tract. In cosmetics it is marketed as 'detox' and 'toxin extraction from skin' – a claim without clinical grounds. In formulation it acts as a physical colorant and microabrasive in peel-off masks and cleansers. Purely cosmetic effect; it does not 'detoxify' the skin.

Naturally derived uric acid derivative. Accelerates cell proliferation, reduces irritation, and softens the stratum corneum.

Gel from aloe leaves containing polysaccharides, vitamins, and amino acids. Moisturizes, soothes irritated skin, and accelerates healing of minor injuries.

Synthetic arbutin analogue. Inhibits tyrosinase, reducing melanin synthesis without direct melanocyte cytotoxicity.

Prebiotic oligosaccharide that supports the skin microbiome balance. Boosts beneficial flora growth and suppresses pathogens.

Synthetic ingredient with a violet and woody scent. On the EU list of 26 fragrance allergens.

Amphiphilic antioxidant soluble in both water and oils. Skincare promises «universal anti-aging protection»; clinical studies more often show a moderate effect.

Synthetic ingredient with a jasmine scent. On the EU list of 26 fragrance allergens.

Stable water-soluble vitamin C derivative. More oxidation-stable than L-ascorbic acid, but antioxidant and brightening activity are lower.

Modified silicone with amino groups. On skin and hair it anchors more firmly than regular dimethicone and provides a stronger protective effect.

Fragrance ingredient with an anise scent. Occurs in star anise essential oils and appears on the EU list of 26 allergens.

Branched polysaccharide from larch with prebiotic action. Feeds beneficial skin microbiota, forms a soft protective film and reinforces the barrier.

Oil from argania fruit kernels. Contains oleic and linoleic acids, tocopherols, and sterols. Moisturizes, softens, and supports the lipid barrier.

Amino acid; participates in collagen synthesis and acts as a pH regulator replacing synthetic alkalis. In skin formulas works as a mild humectant.

Lipid-soluble ester of vitamin C with palmitic acid. More stable than L-ascorbic acid, does not require acidic pH, and fits oil and emulsion formulas. However, hydrolysis in skin is limited and true vitamin C bioactivity is reduced. Often used as an antioxidant to stabilise oils in formulation.

Stable glycoside of ascorbic acid. Converted to vitamin C by alpha-glucosidase after skin penetration.

Oil-soluble vitamin C derivative. More stable than L-ascorbic acid with better penetration through the lipid barrier. Converts to ascorbic acid inside the skin.

Red carotenoid from the microalga Haematococcus pluvialis. A strong antioxidant, but topical formulas run into its low penetration ability.

Collagen with enzymatically cleaved telopeptides at the molecule ends. Removing terminal regions lowers immunogenicity and eases protein handling in formulas.

Updated version of the Argireline peptide. Marketing promises a reduction of expression wrinkles «like botox», but clinical effects are much more modest.

Synthetic peptide, an elongated analogue of Argireline (Acetyl Hexapeptide-8). The manufacturer Lipotec claims SNARE-complex blockade at facial muscle synapses – a 'mechanism close to botulinum toxin'. Used in anti-age serums to smooth expression lines – glabellar, nasolabial, and outer eye wrinkles. Real effects are substantially weaker than botulinum therapy.

Peptide with potential stimulation of thymus-driven epidermal renewal. Features in formulas against tone loss and tired skin.

Synthetic peptide, a SNAP-25 fragment. Marketed as 'botox in a jar' – suppresses neurotransmitter release at the neuromuscular junction. In reality, the effect is orders of magnitude weaker than botulinum toxin.

Hyaluronic acid with acetyl groups on the molecule. Acetylation adds lipophilicity, improves skin affinity and extends moisture retention versus the regular form.

Synthetic antioxidant preservative. Protects oils and other lipid formula components from rancidity. Used in microdoses in cosmetics.

Plant meroterpene from Psoralea corylifolia seeds. Marketed as a "plant-based retinol alternative" – activates the same receptor pathways without retinoid irritation.

C22 fatty alcohol from rapeseed or mustard oil. Softens the skin and stabilizes emulsions as a co-emulsifier.

Fragrance ingredient and natural component of Tolu balsam. On the EU list of 26 fragrance allergens.

Aromatic alcohol that works as a mild preservative and solvent. Listed among the 26 EU fragrance allergens and requires separate label declaration.

Ester of benzyl alcohol and salicylic acid with a mild floral scent. Listed among the 26 mandatory EU fragrance allergens.

Sodium salt of benzoic acid, food preservative E211. Suppresses yeast and mold growth at acidic pH, often pairs with potassium sorbate.

Antibacterial agent that kills C. acnes by generating oxygen free radicals. Does not induce antibiotic resistance – a key advantage over antibiotics.

Water-soluble UV filter with a medium protection spectrum. Formulators add it to clear gels and sprays, but the sensitization risk is higher than for newer filters.

Bentonite clay based on montmorillonite. A strong adsorbent that pulls sebum and impurities from pores, used in masks for oily and acne-prone skin.

Polysaccharide from yeast, fungal, or oat cell walls. An immunomodulator and humectant that stimulates macrophages and accelerates wound healing.

Plant phytosterol structurally close to cholesterol. Softens skin and supports the lipid barrier, especially in dryness and flaking.

Amino-acid humectant from sugar beet. Holds water in the stratum corneum, softens dryness and tightness, compatible with any formula.

Ester of betaine and salicylic acid. A milder alternative: releases salicylic acid gradually on skin, providing surface keratolytic action.

Polysaccharide from sorbitol fermentation by Sphingomonas elodea. Forms a thin smooth film on skin, boosts surface smoothness, holds moisture and acts as a mild prebiotic.

Monocyclic terpene from chamomile or a synthetic analogue. Anti-inflammatory, soothing, and enhances penetration of other actives through the skin barrier.

Topical alpha-2 adrenergic agonist for rosacea erythema. Constricts superficial vessels and removes redness for 9–12 hours.

Proteolytic enzyme from pineapple stems. Breaks keratin bridges and delivers a light chemical-peel effect with an anti-inflammatory bonus.

Formaldehyde-releasing preservative with bromine in the structure. Suppresses gram-negative bacteria effectively, but causes irritation and allergy.

Multifunctional solvent and humectant. Improves cosmetic formula texture and helps active ingredients penetrate the skin.

Emollient from coconut fatty acids and butylene glycol. Delivers soft slip and light absorption without a film.

Long-chain paraben effective against fungi. The EU holds a 0.14% cap due to potential endocrine activity.

Synthetic fragrance with a lily-of-the-valley scent, known as Lilial. The EU banned it in cosmetics from March 2022 due to reproductive toxicity.

Occlusive emollient made of purified hydrocarbons. Reduces transepidermal water loss by nearly 99% and restores the skin barrier after damage.

Alpha-hydroxy acid from grapes and other fruits. The largest AHA molecule after mandelic acid – penetrates slowly and irritates less than glycolic. Used as a mild exfoliant and pH adjuster. More often found in combination with other acids than as a sole active.

Fermentation product of the soil bacterium Vitreoscilla. Positioned as a skin oxygenation ingredient; clinical evidence is weak.

The number one solvent in cosmetic formulas. Provides hydration of the upper stratum corneum but does not penetrate into deeper layers.

Aloe leaf hydrosol. Used as a base in light textures and toners; gives a soothing feel but lacks the activity of aloe juice.

Hydrosol of bitter orange flowers. Gives formulas a warm citrus scent, contains trace amounts of neroli essential oil.

Polyhydroxy acid, a structural sibling of lactobionic acid. Used in very gentle acid formulations for sensitive skin and post-procedure recovery. A larger molecule than AHAs, it acts mostly at the surface without provoking stinging or redness. Moisturising effect from multiple hydroxyl groups.

Bark and leaf extract with astringent and anti-inflammatory properties. Common in toners, but the distillate usually contains alcohol.

Six-carbon glycol with solvent and antimicrobial properties. Boosts preservative performance and helps deliver actives into the stratum corneum.

Synthetic fragrance ingredient with a jasmine note. On the EU list of 26 fragrance allergens.

Terpene alcohol with a rose scent. Occurs in geranium, rose and palmarosa oils, on the EU list of 26 allergens.

A citrus flavonoid derived from hesperidin. In cosmetics it is used as a vascular-supporting ingredient in anti-redness and anti-age eye products. The manufacturer claims reduced capillary permeability and lessened dark circles and puffiness. Found in well-known eye complexes (Eyeliss, Haloxyl).

Sodium salt of hyaluronic acid. Structurally more stable than the acid itself and more common in formulations. Molecular weight determines behaviour: high-MW (> 1 MDa) holds water at the surface, low-MW (< 50 kDa) penetrates deeper. Cosmetics typically use a mix of MWs. A baseline moisturising active across all segments.

Natural polysaccharide that binds water up to 1000 times its own weight. Topical application creates a surface humectant effect without dermal penetration.

Fragmented hyaluronic acid with a mass <50 kDa. Penetrates the epidermis better than the high-molecular form, but at high concentrations may trigger a pro-inflammatory response.

After hydrogenation castor oil turns into a solid wax-like fat. Structures butters and sticks, raises their hardness and reduces stickiness.

Phospholipid from soy or sunflower raw materials, hydrogenated for greater stability. Works as an emulsifier and integrates into the skin lipid barrier.

Synthetic liquid hydrocarbon with controlled molecular weight. A clean alternative to mineral oil – free of aromatic-hydrocarbon traces.

Synthetic emollient that replaces mineral oil and squalane. Provides light slip, a thin flexible film and water-resistance for color cosmetics.

Antioxidant preservative booster. Reduces formula oxidation and strengthens the activity of other antimicrobial components.

Strong base that works as a pH regulator at minimal concentrations in cosmetic formulas. After neutralizing acids, only potassium salts remain in the finished product.

Strong base that acts as a pH adjuster in cosmetics. Added in microdoses to bring the formula acidity to the required level.

Retinoic acid ester known under the brand Granactive Retinoid. Irritates the skin less than retinol but also has a noticeably smaller clinical base.

Semi-synthetic polymer derived from cellulose. Used as a thickener, film-former, and emulsion stabiliser. In skincare it creates a pleasant gel texture without tackiness. The same polymer used in 'artificial tear' ophthalmic drops.

Synthetic ingredient with a lily-of-the-valley scent. On the EU list of 26 fragrance allergens with concentration limits.

Humectant, a urea relative. Attracts moisture into the stratum corneum and softens the skin without a drying effect.

Natural cellulose-derived polymer. Works as a thickener and texture stabilizer in gels, serums and cleansers. Inert on skin.

Water-soluble form of jojoba waxes. Softens skin, aids formula spreadability, and partially restores the lipid film after cleansing.

Collagen fragments broken down to peptides and amino acids. Moisturize the skin surface but do not integrate into the dermis's own collagen. Marketing often exaggerates the effect.

The strongest topical depigmenting agent. Inhibits tyrosinase and exerts cytotoxic effects on melanocytes. Prescription-only in many countries.

Isoflavonoid from licorice root. Inhibits tyrosinase and suppresses inflammation. Main active in depigmenting products based on licorice extract.

Alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) with the smallest molecular weight in the group. Accelerates desquamation, evens skin tone and texture.

Opacifier and pearlescent agent in shampoos and body washes. Gives products a milky-pearlescent look with no functional skin effect.

Monoglyceride emollient of lauric acid. Softens skin and adds auxiliary antimicrobial support to formulas.

Basic emulsifier from glycerin and stearic acid. Holds water and oil in one phase, gives creams a dense texture.

The simplest trihydric alcohol and one of the most common humectants in cosmetics. Draws water from the environment and retains it in the stratum corneum.

Tripeptide of glutamate, cysteine and glycine – key intracellular antioxidant. In cosmetics it promises skin brightening through tyrosinase inhibition and a switch in melanin synthesis.

Polyhydroxy acid (PHA) – a gentle AHA alternative. Its large molecular size slows penetration, reducing irritation. Also hydrates through hygroscopicity.

Chemical UVB filter. Often combined with avobenzone to broaden protection. Limited to 10% in the EU due to potential endocrine activity.

Cationic polymer derived from guar gum. Main conditioning agent in shampoos, shampoo-gels, and cleansing facial balms. Deposits on hair and skin during rinse-off and provides a soft after-feel. In cleansers it reduces the drying effect of anionic surfactants.

Formaldehyde-releasing preservative. Slowly releases formaldehyde, which kills bacteria. Controversial due to formaldehyde's carcinogenicity via inhalation.

Broad-spectrum preservative, often used with benzyl alcohol. Works at pH below 6 and pairs well with natural formulas.

Ethyl alcohol with denaturing additives. Quickly degreases the skin and creates a refreshing sensation. At high concentrations, it damages the lipid barrier and increases TEWL.

Formaldehyde-releasing preservative with a broad spectrum against bacteria and fungi. Works effectively but triggers contact dermatitis.

Light emollient solvent often used in sunscreens and cream bases. Helps distribute UV filters and leaves a dry, non-greasy finish.

Salt form of glycyrrhizic acid from licorice root. Anti-inflammatory and soothing; a staple of sensitive/reactive skin formulas.

Light synthetic emollient from coconut fatty acids. Delivers a dry finish without stickiness, absorbs quickly.

Light plant-derived emollient from coconut/palm kernel oil. Marketed as a natural alternative to cyclic silicones (D4, D5), partially restricted in the EU. Provides a dry, silky feel, absorbs quickly, and aids pigment dispersion. Non-comedogenic.

Silicone polymer that forms a protective film on the skin to lock in moisture. Gives products a silky texture and does not penetrate the dermis.

Cross-linked form of dimethicone, a polymer network of siloxane chains. Functions as a thickener, emulsion stabiliser, and texture modifier – providing the characteristic 'silky-powder' feel loved in primers and mattifying bases. Visually fills fine skin irregularities and wrinkles. Non-comedogenic. A common component in blurring effects in sunscreens and foundation bases.

Silicone polymer with hydroxyl groups at chain ends. Forms a breathable film and holds moisture in the stratum corneum.

Metal ion chelator that stabilizes cosmetic formulas. Binds traces of iron and copper that enter the product through water or raw materials and accelerate oxidation.

Mineral UV filter effective mainly in the UVB and short-wave UVA range. Often combined with zinc oxide for broad-spectrum protection.

Glycol with two propylene units. Dissolves fragrances and actives, holds water in the stratum corneum and reduces formula viscosity.

Modified clay thickener for mineral sunscreens and foundations. Evenly distributes zinc oxide and titanium dioxide pigments.

Ground pearl powder historically used in Chinese and Korean traditional medicine. In modern cosmetics it is a marketing ingredient for 'radiant skin' and a decorative filler in powders and illuminating creams. It consists mostly of calcium carbonate (95%) and conchiolin protein. No evidence base for an anti-age effect.

Topical antiparasitic agent that works against Demodex mites and rosacea inflammation. Galderma markets it as Soolantra.

Synthetic analog of ubiquinone (CoQ10) with higher stability. Works as an antioxidant and mitochondrial protector and has been studied in dermatology since the 2000s.

Light synthetic emollient with a dry finish. Dissolves pigments and oils, so it appears in makeup removers and primers.

Volatile branched hydrocarbon with quick evaporation. Backbone of long-wear lipsticks, primers and waterproof mascara: leaves pigment on skin without stickiness after application.

Synthetic ester – a light, dry emollient. Delivers silky spread without oily shine and is popular in colour cosmetics and lightweight creams. Common as a base in sunscreens where it is compatible with UV filters. Non-comedogenic.

Branched five-carbon diol. Dissolves both oil- and water-soluble actives, boosts their penetration and acts as a mild preservative booster.

Light texture emollient: removes the greasy afterfeel of creams and helps the product spread. Acne-prone skin tolerates it worse – in some people it worsens clogged pores.

Emollient from isopropyl alcohol and palmitic acid. Gives a dry slip but in acne-prone skin may worsen clogged pores.

Aromatic compound with a clove scent. Occurs in nutmeg oil and appears on the EU list of 26 fragrance allergens.

Preservative from the formaldehyde-releaser group: gradually releases trace amounts of formaldehyde. A portion of people reacts with contact allergy.

Oil from fig seeds rich in linoleic and oleic acids. Softens skin and supports the lipid barrier without a heavy film.

Prebiotic polysaccharide from chicory root. Feeds beneficial skin microbiome bacteria and holds moisture.

Highly stable UVB filter by Merck (Uvasorb HEB). Maintains protection under sunlight and pairs well with broad-spectrum UVA filters.

Iodine-containing preservative with strong antifungal action. Works at low concentrations but triggers sensitization.

Water-soluble azelaic acid derivative. Gentler but less effective than pure azelaic acid. Used in OTC brightening products.

Polysaccharide gum from the Senegal acacia tree. Film-forming and stabilizing polymer; in masks and serums gives a mild skin-tightening feel.

Polyglutamic acid from fermented natto soy. Forms a hydrating film and holds water more efficiently than hyaluronic acid.

White clay based on hydrated aluminosilicate. Gently adsorbs excess sebum and impurities, so it appears in masks for oily skin.

Blend of caprylic and capric acid glycerides from coconut oil. Light emollient, boosts penetration of oil-soluble actives.

Multifunctional ingredient that boosts preservatives and works as a mild humectant and conditioner. Often paired with phenoxyethanol.

Lightweight emollient derived from coconut or palm kernel oil. Non-comedogenic, absorbs quickly, and is used as a replacement for heavier oils.

Lipophilic derivative of salicylic acid with a caprylic (C8) chain. Unlike plain salicylic acid, it penetrates deeper into sebaceous gland openings thanks to its lipid solubility. Developed by L'Oreal and actively used in the La Roche-Posay Effaclar line. Targets comedones and post-acne marks more than inflammation.

Synthetic acrylic acid polymer used as a gel thickener and stabilizer. Creates a clear gel texture. Widely used in pharmaceuticals and cosmetics.

Red pigment from dried female cochineal insects (Dactylopius coccus). Used in lipsticks, eyeshadows, and blushes for a deep red shade. Not vegan – absence of carmine is often used as a marker of vegan cosmetics. Allergenic potential ranges from low to moderate.

Dipeptide of beta-alanine and histidine, a natural antioxidant. Binds glycation end-products and protects skin proteins from oxidation.

Thick oil from castor seeds with high ricinoleic acid content. Gives shine to lipsticks and balms, softens lips and holds pigment on the surface.

Formaldehyde-releasing preservative. Gradually releases formaldehyde inside the product and often triggers contact allergy.

Topical lincosamide antibiotic. Doctors prescribe it for inflammatory acne, often combined with benzoyl peroxide to prevent resistance.

Byproduct of Aspergillus fungal fermentation. Chelates copper, inhibiting tyrosinase. One of the early depigmenting agents with proven efficacy.

Nonionic surfactant and foam thickener made from coconut fatty acids and monoethanolamine. Improves texture and foam density in shampoos and body washes.

Mild amphoteric surfactant from coconut oil. Reduces the irritating effect of harsher surfactants in the formula. Occasionally causes contact dermatitis due to manufacturing impurities.

Mild plant-based surfactant from coconut oil fatty alcohols and glucose. Creates creamy foam and cleanses skin without barrier disruption.

Plant-derived emollient from coconut fatty alcohols and caprylic acid. Delivers a dry silky slip, replaces silicones and cyclomethicone in clean formulas.

Amphoteric surfactant derived from coconut fatty acids. A relative of cocamidopropyl betaine: delivers mild cleansing, stabilizes foam and reduces irritation from anionic surfactants.

Tropical oil high in lauric acid. Moisturizes well but is comedogenic and can clog pores when applied to the face.

Finely ground oat flour with anti-inflammatory, moisturizing, and barrier properties. FDA-approved as an OTC skin protectant. Avenanthramides are the active anti-inflammatory compounds.

Alkaloid from coffee beans and tea leaves. Stimulates microcirculation, constricts vessels and delivers antioxidant protection.

Natural compound synthesised by the body for muscle energy metabolism. Entered cosmetics from the anti-age segment: the manufacturer claims support for skin cell energy metabolism and an anti-age effect. Particularly common in German brands (Nivea Q10, anti-age line from Beiersdorf).

Bacterial polysaccharide used as a thickener and stabilizer. Gives a gel-like texture to aqueous formulas. Inert to the skin.

Natural aromatic compound with a fresh hay scent. Occurs in sweet clover and tonka beans, on the EU list of 26 allergens.

Essential oil of narrow-leaved lavender with linalool and linalyl acetate. Popular fragrance with a relaxing aroma; oxidation creates a notable contact allergy risk.

Salt of lactic acid, a natural component of the skin's NMF. Strong humectant that retains moisture and supports acidic barrier pH, with a lighter feel than glycerin.

Lactobacillus probiotic lysate with soothing and barrier-supporting action. Appears in sensitive-skin lines such as La Roche-Posay Toleriane.

Polyhydroxy acid (PHA) with antioxidant properties. Chelates iron ions, preventing oxidative stress. Its large molecule provides gentle exfoliation without irritation.

Ethoxylated version of SLS – gentler but still potentially irritating to sensitive skin. One of the most common surfactants in shampoos and shower gels.

Mild plant-based surfactant from lauryl alcohol and glucose. Well tolerated by sensitive skin and suitable for baby cosmetics.

Anionic surfactant with strong cleansing properties. Effectively removes oil but aggressively disrupts the lipid barrier. The standard irritant in dermatological patch testing.

Phospholipid derived from soy or egg yolk. In cosmetics it works as an emulsifier, humectant, and carrier for actives in liposomes. Found in many emulsions and serums. Hydrogenated lecithin is a more stable form and is listed separately.

Bifidobacteria probiotic lysate, the key active in Estee Lauder Advanced Night Repair serum. Works on skin barrier recovery.

Postbiotic ingredient – lysate of a fermented Lactococcus culture. Positioned as skin microbiome support; clinical evidence is limited.

Postbiotic lysate of a Saccharomyces yeast culture. Close relative of SK-II Pitera (galactomyces); claimed for skin radiance and texture.

A chalcone from liquorice root (Glycyrrhiza inflata). Acts on multiple inflammation pathways: inhibits NF-κB and suppresses pro-inflammatory cytokines (IL-6, TNF-α). In clinical studies it shows effects in rosacea and sensitive skin, and inhibits Propionibacterium acnes growth. Key active in the Eucerin Anti-Redness and Eucerin Dermo-Pure lines.

Monoterpene with citrus scent, a natural component of lemon and orange essential oils. Listed among the 26 mandatory EU fragrance allergens.

pH regulator and mild chelator. In cosmetic formulas it keeps pH within the desired range and binds metal ions that accelerate oxidation.

Natural terpene alcohol with a floral scent, a component of lavender, basil and bergamot oils. Listed among the 26 EU fragrance allergens.

Essential omega-6 fatty acid. Key component of type-1 ceramides (Ceramide EOS, EOH) – the foundation of skin barrier function. In acne patients, sebum linoleic acid is often low, contributing to pilosebaceous inflammation. Topical application in acne and dry skin restores the balance. Present in safflower, sunflower, and grape seed oils.

The primary triterpenic glycoside from Centella asiatica. Suppresses inflammation and stimulates type I collagen synthesis. More standardized than raw centella extract.

Polysaccharide from corn or potato starch. In cosmetics it works as a texture modifier and formula stabilizer.

Simple sugar, humectant. Pulls water into the stratum corneum; in prebiotic formulas claimed to support the skin microbiome.

Fatty oil rich in oleic acid and unsaponifiable lipids. Softens dry skin and supports the lipid barrier.

Essential oil from sweet orange peel with limonene as the main component. Oxidizes in air to form strong contact allergens.

Bergamot essential oil with high bergapten content. The most phototoxic of citrus oils: after application and sun exposure can cause persistent pigmented patches – berloque dermatitis.

Light fatty oil with a high share of linoleic acid. Suits oily and combination skin – absorbs faster than olive or avocado.

Grapefruit essential oil with a fresh bitter aroma. Raises the risk of photoreactions and contact dermatitis due to furanocoumarins and oxidized limonene.

Liquid wax compositionally similar to human sebum. Absorbs quickly without leaving a greasy sheen. Suitable even for oily skin.

Fatty oil from oat kernels. Softens skin, reinforces the lipid barrier; popular in formulas for atopic and dry skin.

Solid plant butter from cocoa beans. Melts with skin warmth, gives a dense occlusive film and softens dry areas well.

Base plant oil from apricot kernels. Rich in oleic acid and vitamin E, softens dry skin.

Essential oil from lemon peel with furanocoumarins in the composition. Delivers a fresh citrus scent but raises UV sensitivity – risk of phototoxic burns and pigmentation.

Dense butter from mango kernels, close in properties to shea. Softens dry spots and suits rich creams and lip balms.

Oil from seeds of the Indian neem tree (Azadirachta indica). Its characteristic garlic-sulphur odour is a major drawback. Used in Ayurveda and Indian cosmetics for acne, dandruff, psoriasis, and head lice. The main active is azadirachtin. Limited use outside India due to the smell; in the EU it is considered a moderate allergen.

Rich orange oil with carotenoids, vitamin E and omega-7. Restores dry skin and at higher doses can tint skin and fabrics.

Fatty oil from Japanese camellia (tsubaki) seeds. Traditional Japanese hair and skin oil: light, non-comedogenic, rich in oleic acid.

Oil with an optimal omega-6/omega-3 ratio (3:1). Contains no THC. Absorbs well, does not clog pores, and strengthens the lipid barrier.

Fatty oil from sweet almond kernels. Gives a mild slip and softens the skin, though people with a nut allergy may react.

Dark green oil from Calophyllum inophyllum seeds, a tropical Polynesian tree. Rich in fatty acids, calophyllolide, and delta-tocopherol. In traditional medicine and modern Indian/Asian cosmetics it is used for wound healing, post-acne scars, and stretch marks. Anti-inflammatory and regenerative activity shown in laboratory models. Moderate comedogenicity – use with caution on acne-prone skin.

Essential oil with antibacterial activity against C. acnes. Terpinen-4-ol is the main active component. Acne efficacy confirmed, but irritation is possible.

Plant butter from shea tree nuts. Rich in fatty acids and unsaponifiables with anti-inflammatory properties. Intensely softens skin and restores the barrier.

Oil from rosehip seeds, rich in linoleic and alpha-linolenic acids plus trace amounts of trans-retinoic acid. Used for scars and pigmentation.

Synthetic peptide mimicking a type I collagen fragment. Activates synthesis of collagen, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid via dermal cell signaling pathways.

Bee honey as a cosmetic ingredient. Works as a humectant and delivers a mild antibacterial effect via hydrogen peroxide and low pH.

Tripeptide-copper complex that stimulates synthesis of collagen, elastin, and glycosaminoglycans. Accelerates wound healing and exerts anti-inflammatory effects.

Newest organic UV filter. Approved in the EU in 2022 and used in L'Oreal lines (La Roche-Posay Anthelios UVMUNE 400, Vichy Capital Soleil). Covers the longest-wavelength UVA range (UVA-I up to 400 nm), which most other filters do not reach. Used alongside Tinosorb S, Tinosorb M, and other modern filters.

Patented water-soluble UVA filter by L'Oreal (Ecamsule). Blocks the short UVA range that many classic filters leave uncovered.

Patented lipophilic broad-spectrum filter by L'Oreal. Covers both UVB and UVA ranges and stays stable under sunlight.

A mild cooling agent, the ester of menthol and lactic acid. Activates the same TRPM8 receptors but without the sharp cold and irritation of pure menthol. Used in after-shave, sensitive-skin products, and lip balms. Better tolerated than menthol with a lower sensitisation risk.

A terpenoid from peppermint. Activates TRPM8 cold receptors, producing a cooling sensation. Used in after-shave balms, foot products, and shampoos. Does not treat the skin – provides a sensory effect perceived as 'freshening' or 'toning'. Irritation and contact dermatitis are possible, especially above 1%.

Medium-strength UVA filter from the anthranilate group. Covers short UVA, but protective potential stays modest compared to modern molecules.

Strong biocide preservative. One of the most frequent contact allergens of the past decade – in the EU it is restricted to rinse-off products at very low concentrations.

Paraben with the lowest molecular weight and weakest estrogenic activity in the group. One of the most studied cosmetic preservatives. EU-permitted concentration up to 0.4%.

Multifunctional glycol that works as a solvent, humectant and penetration enhancer for active ingredients. Better tolerated than propylene glycol.

Strong preservative from the isothiazolinone family (CMIT). The EU banned it in leave-on cosmetics from 2015 due to a contact allergy epidemic.

Topical antibiotic from the nitroimidazole group. Doctors prescribe it for papulo-pustular rosacea and perioral dermatitis.

Refined petroleum wax with small crystals. Binds oils, boosts plasticity and durability of color cosmetics, forms a thin occlusive film.

AHA with a large molecule (bigger than glycolic acid). Penetrates skin more slowly, making it gentler. Suitable for darker phototypes where glycolic acid more often triggers post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

Purified cosmetic-grade liquid hydrocarbon oil. Works as a mild occlusive, reduces moisture loss and tolerates the skin as well as petrolatum.

Topical vasodilator that stimulates hair growth in androgenetic alopecia. Works by extending the anagen phase of the hair follicle.

Solid waxy ester with a pearlescent texture. Thickens creams and leaves a silky skin feel after application.

AHA with dual action: acid exfoliation and moisturization via hygroscopicity. Gentler than glycolic acid.

A natural moisturizing factor (NMF) present in the stratum corneum. Low concentrations moisturize; high concentrations act as a keratolytic. The gold standard for hyperkeratosis and xerosis.

Snail secretion filtrate containing glycoproteins, hyaluronic acid, glycolic acid, and antimicrobial peptides. Popular in Korean skincare for hydration and regeneration.

Sodium salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid – the primary component of the natural moisturizing factor (NMF). Attracts and retains moisture in the stratum corneum.

Water-soluble stable vitamin C derivative. Skin phosphatase releases active ascorbic acid. Active at pH 7 – does not require acidic pH.

Crosslinked high-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid that stays longer on the skin surface. Provides prolonged moisturizing compared to regular sodium hyaluronate.

Sodium salt of carbomer – a pre-hydrolysed form of polyacrylic acid. Unlike Carbomer, it does not require alkali to thicken and works directly in neutral and acidic environments. Produces clear gels with a characteristic texture and is compatible with acidic actives (vitamin C, AHA/BHA).

Mild surfactant and emulsifier based on lactic and lauric acids. Well tolerated by the skin and helps stabilize formulas without harsh emulsifiers.

Vitamin B3 form with a wide action spectrum: brightens pigmentation, strengthens the barrier, minimizes pores, and reduces sebum production.

Natural mineral wax from rock deposits. Thickens the oil phase of sticks and lipsticks, stabilizes emulsions and boosts product heat resistance.

Broad-spectrum UV filter, one of the oldest among chemical SPFs. Raises the most questions about endocrine safety and causes contact dermatitis more often than other filters.

Broad-spectrum mineral UV filter (UVA + UVB). Acts as a physical screen, reflecting and scattering ultraviolet light. Also has anti-inflammatory and drying properties.

One of the most widely used chemical UVB filters. Banned in Hawaii and Palau due to coral reef harm. Potential endocrine activity is under discussion.

Medium-strength UVB filter that often stabilizes avobenzone and dissolves other filters. A staple of American and European sunscreens.

UVB and partial UVA filter that stabilizes avobenzone in SPF formulas. During prolonged storage it slowly turns into benzophenone with a limited toxicology base.

Oil with a high oleic acid share. Nourishes dry skin, but on a damaged barrier and in atopic dermatitis it may worsen irritation.

An umbrella term for a blend of aromatic components. May contain dozens of allergenic substances. The leading contact allergen in cosmetics – triggers contact dermatitis in 1–4% of the population.

Emulsifier and cream stabilizer. Often works together with glyceryl stearate – the pair builds a stable emulsion with a pleasant texture.

Non-ionic solubilizer made from castor oil and ethylene oxide. Dissolves fragrances, essential oils and oil-soluble actives in the water phase.

Non-ionic emulsifier and solubilizer. Helps mix oil and water phases in creams and lotions and dissolves fragrance oils.

PABA derivative that moved from old sunscreens into niche cosmetics. Carries a notable allergy risk and shows phototoxicity.

Saturated fatty acid with 16 carbons. One of the baseline components of the skin's lipid mantle (approximately 20% of stratum corneum fatty acids). In cosmetics it is used as an emulsifier component and emollient. Also found in palm-oil-based soaps. At excess concentration it can leave a heavy film feel.

Synthetic lipopeptide of six amino acids with a palmitic tail for better penetration. The manufacturer claims stimulation of collagen and glycosaminoglycan synthesis and wrinkle smoothing. Part of well-known anti-age complexes (Matrixyl synthe'6). Belongs to the 'signalling peptide' class.

Synthetic lipopeptide that suppresses interleukin-6 (IL-6), a pro-inflammatory cytokine. Part of the Matrixyl 3000 complex alongside palmitoyl tripeptide-1.

Lipopeptide mimicking a collagen fragment. Stimulates fibroblasts to produce collagen and hyaluronic acid. Often combined with palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 (Matrixyl 3000).

Alcohol analogue of pantothenic acid. Penetrates skin and converts to pantothenic acid, required for coenzyme A synthesis. Accelerates healing and reduces irritation.

Water-soluble vitamin B5, biochemical precursor of coenzyme A. Cosmetics more often use the proalcohol form D-Panthenol (dexpanthenol), which converts to pantothenic acid on skin. The acid itself is used less often – it is unstable in aqueous formulas, and D-Panthenol has better penetration. In acne and post-procedure skin, pantothenate stimulates reparative processes in keratinocytes.

Proteolytic enzyme from papaya. Gently dissolves keratin of dead cells and works as a gentle alternative to acid peels.

Pentaerythritol ester with a light silky texture. Replaces mineral oils, gives slip to creams, lipsticks and eye products.

Five-carbon glycol. Works as a humectant and preservative booster: suppresses microbial growth and reduces the preservative load of the formula.

Second-generation antifungal agent, a zinc pyrithione replacement. Effective against Malassezia – the fungus causing dandruff and seborrheic dermatitis.

Plant oil high in linoleic acid. Restores the lipid barrier in xerosis. Recommended as a base oil for newborns instead of olive oil.

Cross-linked acrylate polymer for light jelly textures. Tolerates electrolytes and actives well, delivers a fresh feel and fast absorption.

Plant-based nonionic emulsifier. A mild alternative to PEG emulsifiers in clean-beauty formulas; stabilizes oil-in-water emulsions.

Fatty polyglycerin ester for pigment dispersion in anhydrous formulas. Helps distribute mineral filters and colorants evenly in sticks and lipsticks.

Emulsifier for water-in-oil systems. Stabilizes sunscreen milks, BB creams and water-resistant color cosmetics.

Biopolymer of gamma-glutamic acid produced by fermentation. Retains moisture 4–5 times more effectively than hyaluronic acid due to its large molecular network.

Salmon DNA fragments with molecular weight 50–1500 kDa. Activate purinergic receptors, stimulating angiogenesis and regeneration. Topical application is limited by molecular size.

Modified cellulose with a positive charge. In shampoos and face washes it softens surfactant harshness and improves tactile properties.

Cationic conditioning polymer. In haircare reduces static and eases combing; in skincare forms a light film.

Cationic polymer conditioner. Reduces the tight feeling after washing with surfactants and makes hair softer and easier to comb.

Nonionic surfactant and emulsifier used to solubilize oils and essential oils in aqueous formulas. One of the most common co-emulsifiers in cosmetics.

Non-ionic emulsifier and solubiliser. Helps mix oils with water and stabilises oil-in-water emulsions. Found in creams, lotions, and masks. Not irritating on its own, but frequently paired with PEG compounds to which a subset of patients reacts.

Non-ionic emulsifier and solubiliser closely related to polysorbate 60. Particularly common in aqueous gels and clear toners to dissolve small amounts of oils – essential oils, vitamins, fragrances. Also used as a solubiliser for aromatic components.

Extract of Japanese and Korean mugwort. Contains eupatilin and sesquiterpenes with anti-inflammatory and antioxidant action.

Plant-derived humectant from corn. Works as a humectant and penetration booster for other actives, replaces propylene glycol in Korean formulas.

Dihydric alcohol that functions as a humectant and penetration enhancer. At high concentrations, it can irritate sensitive skin.

Long-chain paraben that has preserved cosmetics for over 70 years. The EU limited its concentration from 2014 due to possible endocrine effects.

Resinous substance bees collect from tree buds. Contains flavonoids, phenolic acids, and esters with antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory activity.

Natural polysaccharide produced by fermentation of Aureobasidium pullulans fungus. Forms a thin skin film and gives a temporary lifting effect.

Honeybee venom containing melittin, phospholipase A2, and apamin. In Korean cosmetics it is marketed as a 'natural Botox' – supposedly triggering micro-contraction of facial muscles. In reality, local irritation activates micro-circulation and causes temporary skin tightening. Contraindicated in bee or insect-sting allergy. No clinically meaningful anti-age effect shown in independent studies.

Polyphenol from grape skin and berries. Antioxidant that activates sirtuins. Topical bioavailability is limited by molecular instability.

Intermediate vitamin A form between retinol and retinoic acid. More potent than retinol but gentler than tretinoin.

Weak retinoid form: a retinol ester with acetic acid. Low bioavailability on skin, a weaker effect than retinol and retinal.

Ester of retinol and palmitic acid – the most stable but also weakest form of vitamin A in cosmetics. Requires two conversion steps to reach active retinoic acid.

A vitamin A derivative converted by skin into retinoic acid. One of the best-studied topical ingredients with proven anti-aging efficacy.

Beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) with lipophilic properties: penetrates sebaceous glands, dissolves plugs, and exerts anti-inflammatory effects.

Lipophilic salicylic acid derivative linked to phytosphingosine (a ceramide precursor). Combines exfoliating and barrier-restoring properties.

Ester of sucrose and palmitic acid. Mild non-ionic emulsifier for O/W creams, delivers a light texture and fits sensitive-skin formulas.

Elemental sulfur in colloidal form. One of the oldest topical anti-acne ingredients. Disrupts hyperkeratosis at follicular openings and provides mild keratolytic and antibacterial effects. Used for acne and seborrheic dermatitis. The characteristic smell limits patient acceptability.

Silicon dioxide, absorbent and mattifying agent. Soaks up sebum and gives the skin a smooth matte finish.

Synthetic hydrocarbon wax from the Fischer-Tropsch process. Structures sticks, balms and lipsticks, gives a dense plastic texture and temperature stability.

Hydrogenated form of squalene, a natural component of sebum. A lightweight emollient that does not clog pores and restores the lipid barrier.

Unsaturated hydrocarbon and a natural sebum component. Unlike squalane, it is unstable and oxidizes rapidly, limiting its use in pure form.

Natural polysaccharide from fermentation of the fungus Sclerotium rolfsii. Thickens the water phase, gives creams a silky texture and stabilizes emulsions across pH values.

Natural mineral filler that delivers a shimmering effect. Base for luminous eyeshadows, highlighters and BB creams.

A collective label under which the manufacturer may include various fruit extract mixes. Without specification of which fruits are included, activity and risks cannot be assessed. Often used as a marketing ingredient for a 'natural' positioning.

Phytoestrogens from soy: genistein, daidzein, glycitein. Structurally resemble estradiol and weakly bind skin estrogen receptors. Marketing positioning – anti-age for menopausal skin where estrogen decline is linked to loss of firmness and density. Topical evidence base is limited, but safety profile is favourable.

Anionic copolymer based on acrylic acid. A water-phase thickener and emulsion stabiliser with high water-holding capacity. Used in gel-creams, serums, and cleansing gels. Differs in structure and function from the simpler Acrylates Copolymer.

Associative polymer thickener for O/W emulsions. Builds a flexible network of microclusters, giving creams body and a cushiony texture without stickiness.

Film-forming polymer. Common in hair products as a fixative for sprays and styling, and in colour cosmetics (mascara, eyeliner) for longevity. In skincare it provides a lightweight film and improves after-feel. Combined with silicones and other film-formers it raises the risk of pilling.

Pre-neutralized acrylate thickener with built-in emulsifying ability. Gives creams a gel-like texture, light slip and stability across pH and electrolytes.

Synthetic polymer of the polyacrylate class. Functions as a thickener and emulsion stabiliser. Produces gels and creams with a characteristic silky texture and holds water. Common in serums and lightweight moisturisers.

Mild broad-spectrum preservative that works against mould and yeast. Well tolerated by skin and allowed even in baby cosmetics.

Natural acid and mild preservative against mould and yeast. Works in acidic environments, so formulas target pH below 6.

The second component of the Olivem 1000 emulsifying system (paired with Cetearyl Olivate). On its own it is a weak emulsifier and only works in combination. Produces a soft emulsion with a characteristic 'lipid' texture. Popular in natural cosmetics.

Six-carbon sugar alcohol of natural origin. Pulls water into the stratum corneum, softens skin and stabilizes emulsions thanks to high hygroscopicity.

Essential oil from Scots pine needles. Rich in alpha- and beta-pinenes, the oxidized forms create strong contact allergens.

Non-ionic emulsifier based on stearyl alcohol and an ethoxylated fragment. Gives stable emulsions with a light texture.

C18 fatty alcohol from coconut or palm oil. Works as an emollient and co-emulsifier, gives creams a dense stable texture.

Saturated fatty acid derived from plant and animal fats. In cosmetics, it functions as an emulsifier, thickener, and co-emollient.

Third-generation topical retinoid with strong antiproliferative action. Doctors prescribe it for psoriasis, acne and photoaging.

Chelator that binds heavy-metal ions (calcium, iron, copper). In cosmetics it prevents oxidation of actives, rancidification of oils, and emulsion discolouration, and enhances preservative efficacy. Works at low concentrations – typically 0.05-0.2%. Raises ecological concerns (poor biodegradability), but alternatives such as Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate have emerged relatively recently.

Chelating agent based on glutamic acid. A biodegradable alternative to EDTA: binds heavy-metal ions and stabilizes the formula.

Selective human tyrosinase inhibitor by Beiersdorf. Per the manufacturer data, 100 times more potent than kojic acid on the human enzyme.

Hybrid UV filter: works as both an organic absorber and a microparticle with physical reflection. Covers UVB and UVA, remains stable under sunlight.

Photostable broad-spectrum organic UV filter by BASF. Covers UVB and UVA ranges, resists photodegradation and stabilizes other filters in the formula.

Stable ester form of vitamin E. Skin enzymes release active tocopherol. Less allergenic than pure tocopherol and more shelf-stable.

Fat-soluble antioxidant and primary lipid antioxidant of the stratum corneum. Stabilizes cell membranes and enhances photoprotection when combined with vitamin C.

Synthetic lysine derivative. Suppresses plasminogen activation in keratinocytes, reducing prostaglandin synthesis and melanocyte activity.

Disaccharide of two glucose molecules, synthesized by microorganisms and plants under stress. Protects cell membranes from dehydration and holds water in skin.

Retinoic acid – the most active topical form of vitamin A. A prescription drug and the gold standard for topical anti-aging and acne treatment.

Hydrocarbon with 13 carbons. Used as a light volatile emollient, often paired with Undecane in the Cetiol Ultimate system. Gives a 'dry' spread and evaporates after application. An alternative to cyclic silicones. Main use – sunscreens and lightweight serums.

Synthetic 13-amino-acid peptide. The manufacturer claims stimulation of collagen and elastin synthesis, with rejuvenating and anti-ageing effects. Belongs to the 'signalling' peptide class. Independent clinical studies with efficacy comparable to retinol or vitamin C are not available. Positioned as a retinoid alternative for sensitive skin.

Broad-spectrum antibacterial agent. The EU banned it in leave-on cosmetics and keeps a strict 0.3% cap in other categories.

Newest UV filter by BASF (Tinosorb A2B), approved in the EU since 2019. Covers the borderline UVA2/UVB range where classic filters fall short.

Fourth-generation retinoid with selective action on RAR-gamma receptors. Galderma markets it as Aklief for facial and truncal acne.

Peptide from the Matrixyl 3000 anti-age complex. Suppresses procollagenase activity and supports collagen synthesis.

Organic amine used as a pH adjuster and emulsifier. Neutralises acidic polymers (carbomers) allowing them to form gels. Historically ubiquitous, but due to possible nitrosamine formation on contact with nitrites, some manufacturers moved to alternatives – aminomethyl propanol, trometamol. Safe when formulated correctly.

Semi-synthetic flavonoid, derivative of rutin. In pharmacology used for vein tonic products (Troxevasin). In cosmetics marketed as a capillary-strengthening ingredient for the eye area – against dark circles and puffiness.

pH regulator and buffer. Maintains stable formula pH – especially with carbomers and acids – without skin activity.

Coenzyme involved in mitochondrial respiration. Its skin levels decline with age. An antioxidant protecting cell membranes from lipid peroxidation.

Modern UVA filter by BASF (DHHB). Covers the long UVA range and stabilizes avobenzone, which degrades under sunlight without support.

Powerful UVB filter by BASF with the highest protection factor per unit of mass among organic filters. Delivers high SPF at low concentrations.

Hydrocarbon with 11 carbons, a volatile emollient. Paired with Tridecane it forms the Cetiol Ultimate emollient system (BASF). Provides a light skin feel and good compatibility with UV filters. Used in sunscreen sprays and lightweight textures.

Sesquiterpene alcohol with a mild floral scent, a component of neroli and jasmine oils. Listed among the 26 EU fragrance allergens.

Aromatic alcohol that acts as a mild preservative and solvent. Used in popular natural preservation systems alongside caprylyl glycol.

Silicone with phenyl groups. Improves slip, gives a shine effect on skin and hair, and distributes pigments in makeup.

Tyrosinase inhibitor by DSM, known under the Symwhite 377 brand. Works against hyperpigmentation and adds antioxidant protection.

Broad-spectrum preservative that has replaced parabens in many formulas. Effective against gram-negative bacteria. EU regulatory limit is 1%.

Fermented rice filtrate with amino acids and B vitamins. A traditional Japanese cosmetics component, related to sake and koji.

Plant-derived hydroxycinnamic acid. Standalone antioxidant that enhances and stabilizes vitamins C and E in cosmetic formulas.

Fermentation product of Galactomyces fungi. Contains vitamins, organic acids, and enzymes. Popular in Asian skincare (Missha First Treatment Essence).

Yeast fermentation product containing amino acids, vitamins, and minerals. The core ingredient in SK-II Pitera. Moisturizes and evens skin texture.

Sodium salt of phytic acid. A chelator that binds heavy-metal ions (iron, copper, calcium), preventing oxidation of formula components and extending shelf life. No standalone active skin effect.

Mild acid from rice bran and legumes. Works as a metal chelator, antioxidant and gentle exfoliant for sensitive skin.

Sphingolipid and precursor of ceramides. Supports barrier function and regulates the skin microbiome through mild antimicrobial activity.

The simplest aldehyde. Historically used as a preservative in shampoos, nail polishes, and keratin straighteners. IARC Group 1 carcinogen (in industry workers). Banned as a standalone preservative in the EU under Regulation 1223/2009 since 2019. Only formaldehyde-releasing preservatives (DMDM Hydantoin, Imidazolidinyl Urea) are permitted, and only with mandatory 'contains formaldehyde' labelling when concentration exceeds 0.05%.

Table salt. In cosmetics it works as a thickener for surfactant systems and a viscosity regulator in shampoos and shower gels.

Strontium salt that selectively suppresses sensory C-fiber activity in skin. Calms itching and stinging, features in soothing products after acids and retinoids.

Mild preservative booster with broad antifungal and antibacterial activity. Works alongside phenoxyethanol or organic acids.

One of the three key stratum corneum lipids alongside ceramides and fatty acids. Helps restore the barrier in dryness and atopic dermatitis.

Tropical plant whose extract contains asiaticoside, madecassoside, and brahmoside. Stimulates collagen synthesis and reduces inflammation.

Lipids constituting approximately 50% of the stratum corneum. Ceramide deficiency is a key factor in the pathogenesis of atopic dermatitis and xerosis.

Non-ionic emulsifier based on cetearyl alcohol and ethylene oxide. A universal component for oil-in-water emulsions in creams, lotions, and hair conditioners. Forms stable emulsions with a silky after-feel. One of the most widely used emulsifiers in mass-market cosmetics.

Emulsifier derived from olive oil and cetearyl alcohol. Paired with Sorbitan Olivate it forms the well-known Olivem 1000 emulsifying system. A staple of natural and organic cosmetics: mimics the lipid structure of the stratum corneum and supports barrier function. Produces soft creamy textures.

Emulsifier from coconut fatty alcohols and corn glucose. Forms gentle O/W systems with a liquid-crystal structure mimicking intercellular skin lipids.

A blend of cetyl and stearyl fatty alcohols. Emulsifier and thickener that gives creams a stable, rich texture. Not to be confused with drying alcohols like ethanol.

Fatty alcohol that acts as an emollient and thickener. Softens skin and stabilizes emulsions. Safe for skin contact.

Texture emollient: gives creams a silky feel and helps spread pigments in decorative cosmetics. Tolerated well by skin.

Volatile silicone that evaporates quickly from the skin surface, leaving a smooth, non-greasy film. Used as a solvent and carrier for active ingredients.

Zinc salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (NMF). A seboregulator that reduces sebum production. Used in products for oily skin and acne.

Main aromatic component of cinnamon oil. Strong sensitizer, on the EU list of 26 fragrance allergens.

Natural aromatic alcohol from cinnamon bark and hyacinth. On the EU list of 26 fragrance allergens.

Antioxidant and melanin degrader, a hydroquinone alternative for stubborn melasma. The main practical downside is a sharp unpleasant odor.

Blend of geranial and neral with a citrus scent. Occurs in lemongrass oil and appears on the EU list of 26 allergens.

Sodium salt of citric acid. Acts as a buffering pH adjuster and mild metal chelator. Sets the optimal pH for active ingredients – such as vitamin C or acids. Often paired with citric acid to stabilise pH at a target level.

Terpene alcohol with a rose scent, a component of rose and geranium oils. Listed among the 26 mandatory EU fragrance allergens.

Aromatic component of clove oil with a spicy scent. Listed among the 26 mandatory EU fragrance allergens and frequently causes contact allergy.

Lithospermum erythrorhizon root – source of shikonin and its derivatives. In traditional East Asian medicine helps with skin inflammation; in cosmetics delivers an anti-inflammatory effect.

Red algae extract from Gigartina stellata. The manufacturer claims moisturising, protective, and 'antiviral' effects on skin. A close relative is Chondrus Crispus (Irish moss), which has its own DB card. Topical evidence is limited; claimed effects are extrapolated from in vitro data on carrageenans, the polysaccharides of these algae.

Yellow gentian root extract with bitter glycosides and xanthones. Tones the skin, delivers antioxidant action and often features in alpine formulas for mature skin.

«Snow mushroom» extract popular in Korean skincare. Polysaccharides in the composition hold water and work as a hyaluronic-acid alternative with smaller molecules.

Lichen extract with a deep woody scent. Classic component of chypre perfumes, on the EU list of 26 fragrance allergens.

Ginseng root extract with ginsenosides. In Asian formulas it serves as an adaptogen and a component of «energizing» serums.

Source of polyphenols, the main one being EGCG (epigallocatechin-3-gallate). An antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and photoprotective agent.

Aqueous extract of oat kernels, containing avenanthramides – polyphenols with anti-inflammatory activity. Soothes itch and redness in atopic dermatitis, sensitised skin, and after irritating procedures. Works more gently than colloidal oatmeal but with a similar activity profile. Popular in sensitive-skin lines.

Butcher's broom root extract with ruscogenin and neoruscogenin (saponins) as actives. In pharmacology used for venous insufficiency. In cosmetics it appears in anti-redness products and sensitive-skin creams. The manufacturer claims small-vessel constriction and redness reduction.

Hyssop leaf extract. Contains flavonoids and rosmarinic acid, delivers antioxidant action and a mild soothing effect.

Calendula flower extract with anti-inflammatory, wound-healing, and antimicrobial properties. Contains triterpenes, flavonoids, and carotenoids.

Extract from a cell culture of a rare apple variety. Marketing sells it as «stem cells for the skin», yet human clinical base is nearly absent.

Horse chestnut seed extract with escin as the main active. Oral use shows proven benefit in chronic venous insufficiency (Cochrane 2012). Topical use in cosmetics for anti-redness creams and eye-area products – the manufacturer claims reduced capillary permeability and puffiness. Topical clinical studies are substantially fewer.

Extract containing glycyrrhizin, glabridin, and licochalcone A. An anti-inflammatory and brightening ingredient. Glabridin is considered separately as a pure compound.

White willow bark extract, natural source of salicylates. Works more gently than synthetic salicylic acid and delivers a mild exfoliating effect.

Source of phytoestrogens biochanin A and formononetin. Used in anti-age products for mature skin and in women's hair-loss products (estrogen component of androgenic alopecia). Works weakly as a sole active and is more often used in combination with soy isoflavones or wild hollyhock.

Turmeric root extract with curcuminoids. Antioxidant with anti-inflammatory potential; concentrated formulas can stain skin yellow.

Brown algae extract rich in alginates, iodine and minerals. In cosmetics it works as a humectant and conditioning ingredient.

Damask rose petal extract. Antioxidant potential in lab models; used as a fragrance component and marketing active.

Ginkgo biloba leaf extract with flavonoids and terpenoids. In cosmetics claimed as antioxidant and microcirculation ingredient, commonly in eye-area products.

Onion bulb extract with quercetin and sulfur compounds. In haircare claimed as a hair-growth stimulator; in creams as anti-inflammatory.

Extract from the white lily bulb, traditionally used in brightening cosmetics to correct pigmentation. Sensitive skin may show an allergic reaction.

Secretion of worker-bee pharyngeal glands, fed to larvae and the queen. Contains proteins, peptides (notably royalactin 10H2DA), B-vitamins, and minerals. Used in Asian and French cosmetics as an anti-age and regenerative ingredient. High allergenic potential – direct cross-reactivity with bee sting and bee product allergy.

Natural honey extract. Contains sugars, trace amino acids, hydrogen peroxide, and flavonoids. Moisturising effect comes from its high sugar-humectant content. Mild antibacterial activity from hydrogen peroxide and low pH. Used in moisturising masks and lip balms. Moderate allergenic potential – possible reactions in patients with bee-product allergy.

Rosehip fruit extract with vitamin C and carotenoids. Antioxidant potential in lab models; common in anti-aging formulas.

Apple fruit extract with malic acid and polyphenols. Marketing botanical with mild AHA effect and moisturizing action.

Sunflower extract with phytosterols and vitamin E. Unlike the oil, provides light moisturizing and antioxidant support without comedogenic risk.

Purslane extract with omega-3 fatty acids and flavonoids. In Asian cosmetics it often goes into «rescue» formulas for sensitive skin.

Rice bran extract with gamma-oryzanol, tocopherols and ferulic acid. Antioxidant potential; popular in Asian formulas.

Rice bran extract with gamma-oryzanol, tocopherols and ferulic acid. A traditional component of Japanese and Korean cosmetics for glow.

Contains carnosic acid and rosmarinic acid – antioxidants that also protect other unstable formula components from oxidation.

Chamomile flower extract containing bisabolol and chamazulene. An anti-inflammatory and soothing ingredient for sensitive and irritated skin.

Plant pigment (annatto) from Bixa Orellana seeds. Gives orange-red tint to products, contains carotenoids with antioxidant activity in vitro.

Grape seed extract, a source of oligomeric proanthocyanidins. Antioxidant activity in lab models, mild astringent effect.

Pumpkin seed extract with phytosterols and zinc. Marketing-driven active in oily-skin formulas; data for claimed effects are limited.

Barley grain extract with beta-glucan and polysaccharides. Marketing botanical, claimed to moisturize and soothe.

Common thyme leaf extract with thymol and carvacrol. Suppresses growth of Cutibacterium acnes and other skin bacteria, delivers a mild anti-inflammatory effect.

Plant extract from Korean folk medicine. In Asian skincare it serves as an anti-inflammatory ingredient for irritated skin.

Red algae extract (Irish moss) with carrageenans. Moisturizing film-former that gives skin a smoothed feel.

Alpine edelweiss extract with leontopodic and chlorogenic acids. Protects skin cells from UV damage in lab models, delivers antioxidant action.

Small amino-acid-like osmolyte. Originally isolated from halophilic bacteria in salt lakes. In skin it binds water around cellular structures and membranes, protecting proteins and DNA against UV stress and dehydration. Used in formulations for sensitive and atopic skin and in post-laser protective creams.

Water-soluble UVB filter with a light texture. Suits fluids and sprays, gives a non-greasy finish and does not clog pores.

53-amino-acid peptide that stimulates keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation. Used in post-procedure care and anti-aging products.

Natural amino acid synthesised by certain fungi and bacteria. In humans it accumulates in tissues via the specific OCTN1 transporter. In skin it acts as a strong antioxidant, scavenging hydroxyl radicals and protecting mitochondria and DNA. Used in premium antioxidant serums.

Triterpene saponin from horse chestnut seeds. Tightens capillary walls, reduces local edema and often features in eye creams and dark-circle products.

Stable vitamin C derivative with an ethyl group. Irritates the skin less than pure L-ascorbic acid and retains activity in neutral-pH formulas.

Olive-derived emollient. Softens skin, gives the formula a light velvety slip; common clean-beauty replacement for complex synthetic emollients.

Light synthetic emollient with a dry slip. Reduces formula greasiness and replaces heavy plant oils.

Alkylglyceryl ether with deodorizing and mild antimicrobial effects. Boosts the preservative efficacy of phenoxyethanol. Often listed alongside it on ingredient labels.

Short-chain paraben with a clean safety profile. SCCS and CIR consider it safe in cosmetics without age restrictions.

Solvent and penetration enhancer. Helps actives (e.g. vitamins and retinoids) penetrate; may irritate sensitive skin at high concentrations.

Volatile aromatic compounds from plants. Contain terpenes, phenols, and aldehydes – many of which are sensitizers. Marketing presents them as a 'natural' alternative to synthetic fragrances, though allergenicity is comparable.

An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) found in apples and other fruits. Molecularly larger than glycolic acid, it penetrates more gently. Used in formulations as a mild exfoliant and pH adjuster. Popular in 'fruit acid' peels. Rarely used as a sole active, more often combined with glycolic, lactic, and mandelic acids.

Mild dicarboxylic acid with anti-inflammatory and antibacterial action. Popular in Korean and Indian acne cosmetics.