Skin barrier repair ingredients

Triterpenic saponin from Centella asiatica. Stimulates type I collagen synthesis and accelerates healing. Part of TECA (Titrated Extract of Centella Asiatica) used in scar gels.

Naturally derived uric acid derivative. Accelerates cell proliferation, reduces irritation, and softens the stratum corneum.

Prebiotic oligosaccharide that supports the skin microbiome balance. Boosts beneficial flora growth and suppresses pathogens.

Branched polysaccharide from larch with prebiotic action. Feeds beneficial skin microbiota, forms a soft protective film and reinforces the barrier.

Oil from argania fruit kernels. Contains oleic and linoleic acids, tocopherols, and sterols. Moisturizes, softens, and supports the lipid barrier.

Polysaccharide from yeast, fungal, or oat cell walls. An immunomodulator and humectant that stimulates macrophages and accelerates wound healing.

Plant phytosterol structurally close to cholesterol. Softens skin and supports the lipid barrier, especially in dryness and flaking.

Polysaccharide from sorbitol fermentation by Sphingomonas elodea. Forms a thin smooth film on skin, boosts surface smoothness, holds moisture and acts as a mild prebiotic.

Occlusive emollient made of purified hydrocarbons. Reduces transepidermal water loss by nearly 99% and restores the skin barrier after damage.

Phospholipid from soy or sunflower raw materials, hydrogenated for greater stability. Works as an emulsifier and integrates into the skin lipid barrier.

The simplest trihydric alcohol and one of the most common humectants in cosmetics. Draws water from the environment and retains it in the stratum corneum.

Finely ground oat flour with anti-inflammatory, moisturizing, and barrier properties. FDA-approved as an OTC skin protectant. Avenanthramides are the active anti-inflammatory compounds.

Salt of lactic acid, a natural component of the skin's NMF. Strong humectant that retains moisture and supports acidic barrier pH, with a lighter feel than glycerin.

Lactobacillus probiotic lysate with soothing and barrier-supporting action. Appears in sensitive-skin lines such as La Roche-Posay Toleriane.

Bifidobacteria probiotic lysate, the key active in Estee Lauder Advanced Night Repair serum. Works on skin barrier recovery.

Essential omega-6 fatty acid. Key component of type-1 ceramides (Ceramide EOS, EOH) – the foundation of skin barrier function. In acne patients, sebum linoleic acid is often low, contributing to pilosebaceous inflammation. Topical application in acne and dry skin restores the balance. Present in safflower, sunflower, and grape seed oils.

The primary triterpenic glycoside from Centella asiatica. Suppresses inflammation and stimulates type I collagen synthesis. More standardized than raw centella extract.

Fatty oil rich in oleic acid and unsaponifiable lipids. Softens dry skin and supports the lipid barrier.

Liquid wax compositionally similar to human sebum. Absorbs quickly without leaving a greasy sheen. Suitable even for oily skin.

Fatty oil from oat kernels. Softens skin, reinforces the lipid barrier; popular in formulas for atopic and dry skin.

Rich orange oil with carotenoids, vitamin E and omega-7. Restores dry skin and at higher doses can tint skin and fabrics.

Oil with an optimal omega-6/omega-3 ratio (3:1). Contains no THC. Absorbs well, does not clog pores, and strengthens the lipid barrier.

Dark green oil from Calophyllum inophyllum seeds, a tropical Polynesian tree. Rich in fatty acids, calophyllolide, and delta-tocopherol. In traditional medicine and modern Indian/Asian cosmetics it is used for wound healing, post-acne scars, and stretch marks. Anti-inflammatory and regenerative activity shown in laboratory models. Moderate comedogenicity – use with caution on acne-prone skin.

Plant butter from shea tree nuts. Rich in fatty acids and unsaponifiables with anti-inflammatory properties. Intensely softens skin and restores the barrier.

A natural moisturizing factor (NMF) present in the stratum corneum. Low concentrations moisturize; high concentrations act as a keratolytic. The gold standard for hyperkeratosis and xerosis.

Vitamin B3 form with a wide action spectrum: brightens pigmentation, strengthens the barrier, minimizes pores, and reduces sebum production.

Saturated fatty acid with 16 carbons. One of the baseline components of the skin's lipid mantle (approximately 20% of stratum corneum fatty acids). In cosmetics it is used as an emulsifier component and emollient. Also found in palm-oil-based soaps. At excess concentration it can leave a heavy film feel.

Alcohol analogue of pantothenic acid. Penetrates skin and converts to pantothenic acid, required for coenzyme A synthesis. Accelerates healing and reduces irritation.

Water-soluble vitamin B5, biochemical precursor of coenzyme A. Cosmetics more often use the proalcohol form D-Panthenol (dexpanthenol), which converts to pantothenic acid on skin. The acid itself is used less often – it is unstable in aqueous formulas, and D-Panthenol has better penetration. In acne and post-procedure skin, pantothenate stimulates reparative processes in keratinocytes.

Plant oil high in linoleic acid. Restores the lipid barrier in xerosis. Recommended as a base oil for newborns instead of olive oil.

Lipophilic salicylic acid derivative linked to phytosphingosine (a ceramide precursor). Combines exfoliating and barrier-restoring properties.

Hydrogenated form of squalene, a natural component of sebum. A lightweight emollient that does not clog pores and restores the lipid barrier.

Sphingolipid and precursor of ceramides. Supports barrier function and regulates the skin microbiome through mild antimicrobial activity.

One of the three key stratum corneum lipids alongside ceramides and fatty acids. Helps restore the barrier in dryness and atopic dermatitis.

Tropical plant whose extract contains asiaticoside, madecassoside, and brahmoside. Stimulates collagen synthesis and reduces inflammation.

Lipids constituting approximately 50% of the stratum corneum. Ceramide deficiency is a key factor in the pathogenesis of atopic dermatitis and xerosis.

Emulsifier derived from olive oil and cetearyl alcohol. Paired with Sorbitan Olivate it forms the well-known Olivem 1000 emulsifying system. A staple of natural and organic cosmetics: mimics the lipid structure of the stratum corneum and supports barrier function. Produces soft creamy textures.

Aqueous extract of oat kernels, containing avenanthramides – polyphenols with anti-inflammatory activity. Soothes itch and redness in atopic dermatitis, sensitised skin, and after irritating procedures. Works more gently than colloidal oatmeal but with a similar activity profile. Popular in sensitive-skin lines.

Small amino-acid-like osmolyte. Originally isolated from halophilic bacteria in salt lakes. In skin it binds water around cellular structures and membranes, protecting proteins and DNA against UV stress and dehydration. Used in formulations for sensitive and atopic skin and in post-laser protective creams.