Anti-aging cosmetic ingredients

Water-soluble antioxidant that inhibits tyrosinase and stimulates collagen synthesis. Unstable upon oxidation, requiring careful storage.

Synthetic tripeptide modeled on a peptide from the temple viper venom. Marketing compares it to botox; actual clinical studies are scarce.

Third-generation synthetic retinoid. Photostable, less irritating than tretinoin. Available OTC at 0.1% concentration (Differin).

Natural nucleoside acting via skin adenosine receptors. Stimulates collagen synthesis and improves skin firmness.

Triterpenic saponin from Centella asiatica. Stimulates type I collagen synthesis and accelerates healing. Part of TECA (Titrated Extract of Centella Asiatica) used in scar gels.

Amphiphilic antioxidant soluble in both water and oils. Skincare promises «universal anti-aging protection»; clinical studies more often show a moderate effect.

Stable water-soluble vitamin C derivative. More oxidation-stable than L-ascorbic acid, but antioxidant and brightening activity are lower.

Lipid-soluble ester of vitamin C with palmitic acid. More stable than L-ascorbic acid, does not require acidic pH, and fits oil and emulsion formulas. However, hydrolysis in skin is limited and true vitamin C bioactivity is reduced. Often used as an antioxidant to stabilise oils in formulation.

Stable glycoside of ascorbic acid. Converted to vitamin C by alpha-glucosidase after skin penetration.

Oil-soluble vitamin C derivative. More stable than L-ascorbic acid with better penetration through the lipid barrier. Converts to ascorbic acid inside the skin.

Red carotenoid from the microalga Haematococcus pluvialis. A strong antioxidant, but topical formulas run into its low penetration ability.

Updated version of the Argireline peptide. Marketing promises a reduction of expression wrinkles «like botox», but clinical effects are much more modest.

Synthetic peptide, an elongated analogue of Argireline (Acetyl Hexapeptide-8). The manufacturer Lipotec claims SNARE-complex blockade at facial muscle synapses – a 'mechanism close to botulinum toxin'. Used in anti-age serums to smooth expression lines – glabellar, nasolabial, and outer eye wrinkles. Real effects are substantially weaker than botulinum therapy.

Peptide with potential stimulation of thymus-driven epidermal renewal. Features in formulas against tone loss and tired skin.

Synthetic peptide, a SNAP-25 fragment. Marketed as 'botox in a jar' – suppresses neurotransmitter release at the neuromuscular junction. In reality, the effect is orders of magnitude weaker than botulinum toxin.

Plant meroterpene from Psoralea corylifolia seeds. Marketed as a "plant-based retinol alternative" – activates the same receptor pathways without retinoid irritation.

A citrus flavonoid derived from hesperidin. In cosmetics it is used as a vascular-supporting ingredient in anti-redness and anti-age eye products. The manufacturer claims reduced capillary permeability and lessened dark circles and puffiness. Found in well-known eye complexes (Eyeliss, Haloxyl).

Fragmented hyaluronic acid with a mass <50 kDa. Penetrates the epidermis better than the high-molecular form, but at high concentrations may trigger a pro-inflammatory response.

Retinoic acid ester known under the brand Granactive Retinoid. Irritates the skin less than retinol but also has a noticeably smaller clinical base.

Alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) with the smallest molecular weight in the group. Accelerates desquamation, evens skin tone and texture.

Tripeptide of glutamate, cysteine and glycine – key intracellular antioxidant. In cosmetics it promises skin brightening through tyrosinase inhibition and a switch in melanin synthesis.

Polyhydroxy acid (PHA) – a gentle AHA alternative. Its large molecular size slows penetration, reducing irritation. Also hydrates through hygroscopicity.

Synthetic analog of ubiquinone (CoQ10) with higher stability. Works as an antioxidant and mitochondrial protector and has been studied in dermatology since the 2000s.

Dipeptide of beta-alanine and histidine, a natural antioxidant. Binds glycation end-products and protects skin proteins from oxidation.

Alkaloid from coffee beans and tea leaves. Stimulates microcirculation, constricts vessels and delivers antioxidant protection.

Natural compound synthesised by the body for muscle energy metabolism. Entered cosmetics from the anti-age segment: the manufacturer claims support for skin cell energy metabolism and an anti-age effect. Particularly common in German brands (Nivea Q10, anti-age line from Beiersdorf).

Polyhydroxy acid (PHA) with antioxidant properties. Chelates iron ions, preventing oxidative stress. Its large molecule provides gentle exfoliation without irritation.

Bifidobacteria probiotic lysate, the key active in Estee Lauder Advanced Night Repair serum. Works on skin barrier recovery.

The primary triterpenic glycoside from Centella asiatica. Suppresses inflammation and stimulates type I collagen synthesis. More standardized than raw centella extract.

Light fatty oil with a high share of linoleic acid. Suits oily and combination skin – absorbs faster than olive or avocado.

Rich orange oil with carotenoids, vitamin E and omega-7. Restores dry skin and at higher doses can tint skin and fabrics.

Synthetic peptide mimicking a type I collagen fragment. Activates synthesis of collagen, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid via dermal cell signaling pathways.

Tripeptide-copper complex that stimulates synthesis of collagen, elastin, and glycosaminoglycans. Accelerates wound healing and exerts anti-inflammatory effects.

AHA with a large molecule (bigger than glycolic acid). Penetrates skin more slowly, making it gentler. Suitable for darker phototypes where glycolic acid more often triggers post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

AHA with dual action: acid exfoliation and moisturization via hygroscopicity. Gentler than glycolic acid.

Synthetic lipopeptide of six amino acids with a palmitic tail for better penetration. The manufacturer claims stimulation of collagen and glycosaminoglycan synthesis and wrinkle smoothing. Part of well-known anti-age complexes (Matrixyl synthe'6). Belongs to the 'signalling peptide' class.

Synthetic lipopeptide that suppresses interleukin-6 (IL-6), a pro-inflammatory cytokine. Part of the Matrixyl 3000 complex alongside palmitoyl tripeptide-1.

Lipopeptide mimicking a collagen fragment. Stimulates fibroblasts to produce collagen and hyaluronic acid. Often combined with palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 (Matrixyl 3000).

Salmon DNA fragments with molecular weight 50–1500 kDa. Activate purinergic receptors, stimulating angiogenesis and regeneration. Topical application is limited by molecular size.

Natural polysaccharide produced by fermentation of Aureobasidium pullulans fungus. Forms a thin skin film and gives a temporary lifting effect.

Honeybee venom containing melittin, phospholipase A2, and apamin. In Korean cosmetics it is marketed as a 'natural Botox' – supposedly triggering micro-contraction of facial muscles. In reality, local irritation activates micro-circulation and causes temporary skin tightening. Contraindicated in bee or insect-sting allergy. No clinically meaningful anti-age effect shown in independent studies.

Polyphenol from grape skin and berries. Antioxidant that activates sirtuins. Topical bioavailability is limited by molecular instability.

Intermediate vitamin A form between retinol and retinoic acid. More potent than retinol but gentler than tretinoin.

Weak retinoid form: a retinol ester with acetic acid. Low bioavailability on skin, a weaker effect than retinol and retinal.

Ester of retinol and palmitic acid – the most stable but also weakest form of vitamin A in cosmetics. Requires two conversion steps to reach active retinoic acid.

A vitamin A derivative converted by skin into retinoic acid. One of the best-studied topical ingredients with proven anti-aging efficacy.

Phytoestrogens from soy: genistein, daidzein, glycitein. Structurally resemble estradiol and weakly bind skin estrogen receptors. Marketing positioning – anti-age for menopausal skin where estrogen decline is linked to loss of firmness and density. Topical evidence base is limited, but safety profile is favourable.

Third-generation topical retinoid with strong antiproliferative action. Doctors prescribe it for psoriasis, acne and photoaging.

Retinoic acid – the most active topical form of vitamin A. A prescription drug and the gold standard for topical anti-aging and acne treatment.

Fourth-generation retinoid with selective action on RAR-gamma receptors. Galderma markets it as Aklief for facial and truncal acne.

Peptide from the Matrixyl 3000 anti-age complex. Suppresses procollagenase activity and supports collagen synthesis.

Coenzyme involved in mitochondrial respiration. Its skin levels decline with age. An antioxidant protecting cell membranes from lipid peroxidation.

Plant-derived hydroxycinnamic acid. Standalone antioxidant that enhances and stabilizes vitamins C and E in cosmetic formulas.

Tropical plant whose extract contains asiaticoside, madecassoside, and brahmoside. Stimulates collagen synthesis and reduces inflammation.

Yellow gentian root extract with bitter glycosides and xanthones. Tones the skin, delivers antioxidant action and often features in alpine formulas for mature skin.

Ginseng root extract with ginsenosides. In Asian formulas it serves as an adaptogen and a component of «energizing» serums.

Source of polyphenols, the main one being EGCG (epigallocatechin-3-gallate). An antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and photoprotective agent.

Extract from a cell culture of a rare apple variety. Marketing sells it as «stem cells for the skin», yet human clinical base is nearly absent.

Source of phytoestrogens biochanin A and formononetin. Used in anti-age products for mature skin and in women's hair-loss products (estrogen component of androgenic alopecia). Works weakly as a sole active and is more often used in combination with soy isoflavones or wild hollyhock.

Brown algae extract rich in alginates, iodine and minerals. In cosmetics it works as a humectant and conditioning ingredient.

Ginkgo biloba leaf extract with flavonoids and terpenoids. In cosmetics claimed as antioxidant and microcirculation ingredient, commonly in eye-area products.

Secretion of worker-bee pharyngeal glands, fed to larvae and the queen. Contains proteins, peptides (notably royalactin 10H2DA), B-vitamins, and minerals. Used in Asian and French cosmetics as an anti-age and regenerative ingredient. High allergenic potential – direct cross-reactivity with bee sting and bee product allergy.

Rosehip fruit extract with vitamin C and carotenoids. Antioxidant potential in lab models; common in anti-aging formulas.

Rice bran extract with gamma-oryzanol, tocopherols and ferulic acid. Antioxidant potential; popular in Asian formulas.

Rice bran extract with gamma-oryzanol, tocopherols and ferulic acid. A traditional component of Japanese and Korean cosmetics for glow.

Grape seed extract, a source of oligomeric proanthocyanidins. Antioxidant activity in lab models, mild astringent effect.

Alpine edelweiss extract with leontopodic and chlorogenic acids. Protects skin cells from UV damage in lab models, delivers antioxidant action.

53-amino-acid peptide that stimulates keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation. Used in post-procedure care and anti-aging products.

Natural amino acid synthesised by certain fungi and bacteria. In humans it accumulates in tissues via the specific OCTN1 transporter. In skin it acts as a strong antioxidant, scavenging hydroxyl radicals and protecting mitochondria and DNA. Used in premium antioxidant serums.

Stable vitamin C derivative with an ethyl group. Irritates the skin less than pure L-ascorbic acid and retains activity in neutral-pH formulas.